Ramping it up

Ramps are the latest hottest menu items being served at Mid-Western cities. They are tender, fresh and local. The attraction might be in the mystery of the Ramp itself. The name itself appears exotic. But, they are nearly as humble like the dandelion greens which are found in close proximity to the Ramp.

Ramps are wild leeks. I have them all over my backyard. I even have them painted on my outdoor kitchen cabinets, for when the Ramp is in flower, it’s a beautiful site. The Ramp is prolific and easy to grow. It’s a bulb and part of the onion and garlic family, related to the lilies. A moist, cook, damp place is required for these bulbs. I found the Mid-Western cities to provide the best zone.

Ramps are milder that an onion, it’s kind of shaped like a scallion and it does taste like a leek, but has a stronger, tangier hint of wild chives. They will appear in early April and flourish during May. They will finish in mid-June if found further north. If you search for wild Ramps, ones not grown in backyards or by local farmers, go to areas where morel mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns can be found. The Ramp peaks at the same time these two plants peak.

When cooking with the Ramps, first trying them in your favorite stew recipe. Next make a custard, a vinaigrette and a ragouts. Puree’ them with potatoes for a spicy, tangy mash. Grill them alongside meat or fish. Serve a relish made of ramps with crayfish, it’s the best. But, my favorite menu item was a Wild Ramp and Golden Potato gnocchi with a sauce of local goat milk ricotta and morel mushrooms.  My mouth just waters with the memory of that dish. Savory, fresh, light and scrumptious.

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Thursday, June 25th, 2009 Food, Home & Garden

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